[INSIGHT TRAVEL - EUROPEAN GRANDEUR] - Venice/Venezia to Vienna

DAY 23 - SEPTEMBER 22, 2000
VENICE, ITALY - VIENNA, AUSTRIA
VIENNA, AUSTRIA - HOTEL DE FRANCE
ROOM 212

It's Maureen Sinclair's birthday today, our lone New Zealander with the cheerful personality and infectious laughter. I gave her a hug and a kiss before breakfast, and was warmly thanked in return. She's a grand lady with the most positive view of life I've had the pleasure to meet.

Breakfast was a cheerful affair, it seems that everyone has caught their second wind in Venice. Nothing, truly, could beat the atmosphere in Rome for draining energy out of a body : heat, crowds, queues and high prices. But the magic of La Serenissima has exerted itself to good effort, and the morning was filled with laughter as the bags were loaded on the coach.

First was Maxine's discovery of extra lire in her wallet, and Robert chasing her round the bus to the nearest stall in a bid to wrest the money from her. Then the young married lads were teasing Dmitri that he had just a few more days of freedom and ought to make the most of them. To which he replied with a sly grin, "You're naughty!" My rejoinder was, "You've only realized that **now**?" delivered with a saucy grin before disappearing into the bus. I really must get him and Lisa some small gifts to go with their tips, seeing as how they are really worth their weight in gold. Dmitri all by himself slinging our suitcases and bags into the coach; Lisa skipping meals and rest just to keep us all happy and content.

I delivered the traffic report along with the news of the day - Maureen's birthday - and plans for the celebration thereof, which included suspension of all washroom fees, travel through scenic views, and a 21-gun salute on the Schonbrunn Palace lawns from the crew of the HMS Bounty. Much laughter at this last remark, then it was time for all of us to have our morning naps, while heading for our border stop.

From here onwards, I'll be retracing roads once travelled, only in reverse...good angels were on watch for me today, since our rest stop was just over the border from Tarvisio. We made exceptionally good time on the road; the place was sheer luxury compared to what we've been having over the past week.

A chill in the air and a glorious mountain view told one and all that we were in Austria at last! The rest stop was a well-equipped place with clean bathrooms that were also free, which was a godsend after all the pay toilets of Italy (though we managed to skip a goodly share of those, as well). Great food - the Ozzies were wolfing down roast beef and pork like they'd never seen it before.

At the lunch line, Dmitri offered to help me and Ma with our soup bowls - he's taken to hovering somewhat. I set up Ma with her bowl, then politely declined his offer of a bowl, at which he said plaintively, "I just wanted to do something nice for someone who gives me good weather and good traffic always!" A smile from me seemed to mollify him somewhat, but later on, after our brunch - since it was far too glorious to stay indoors, he got in a last word.

Since the exit of the rest stop could only be reached by going through its souvenir shop, nothing could be done but that Ma, after he last call at the washroom, had to go shopping for goodies. Ended up with assorted candies and a pretty white teddy bear with white hearts on its red paws. Bearing these trophies, we headed out for the coach, still closed since the driver was enjoying his last coffee. Everyone was either picnicking or strolling around; Ma and Dad went off on a stroll and left me to catch Alex and Dmitri doing leg stretches against the side of the bus. By the time Ma and Dad had come round to the verge in front of the bus, more people had come about, drawn by the glorious air.

By that time too, I'd found out that Dmitri had been in a road accident in 1977; a car going at 60kph hit him a glancing blow on the hip, tearing two ligaments in his leg. Owwwch! He had to stay in hospital, of course, but was out and on his feet in three months, when his daughter said it should've been a year. (So just by listening to Alex and Owena question Dmitri, I found out this much without having to say a word!) He says the leg can be bothersome at times, but he much rather prefers to be on the road; can't keep his feet at home!

Anna had come up at this time to gently point out that something smelled rather off inside the coach. With an exasperated look and a mutter, Dmitri dove into his "magic box" for something and soon was wielding the nozzle of some air freshener under my nose, asking if it smelled good. It certainly did leave a nice floral scent about it, and with my "seal of approval", off he went to spray the coach. While he was doing that, I discovered from Alex that someone had opened their picnic salami on the bus, and the few seconds the lid was open, the salami managed to send its peculiar scent clinging to every air molecule in the vicinity. Ick. (Dmitri admitted to Owena and Alex that he sees a lot of stuff through the camera that isn't quite right - but he won't say anything because he's "downstairs". Hm! Interesting.)

I rejoined Ma and dad on the grass verge, and by then folks had noticed the shopping bag in my hand. I drew out Ma's teddy bear and she began to cuddle it, much to the amusement of all. It was while she was waving it around that Dmitri snuck up behind her, waiting for an opportunity to grab it, laughing over Ma's shoulder at Marie and Marge and me. Marie gave the game away, and Ma laughingly turned to Dmitri and let him cuddle the teddy bear as well. I think that's where he fell in love with Ma - as has nearly everyone on the tour, come to think of it. But then, Ma's always been that way! Dmitri returned the teddy bear with a mock-stern warning to never leave it on the bus, to which Alex added : "Or it will become his!"

As Ma passed the sweetie to me to keep, I shook my head at Dmitri and sang out, "From this moment on, you will never see this again!" to which his replay was a low, "Mechante fille!!" or "mischievous girl!" -- which was a compliment, I suppose? Seeing as how I know I have not been a girl these decades past.

Soon we were on the road once again, trying to make good time for our lunch stop somewhere around Graz, by my reckoning. To while away the time, I was asked to sing -- a perilous enterprise on a full stomach -- and I was asked to sing something out of The Sound of Music. So I obliched with the title track, The Lonely Goatherd, Do Re Mi, Maria and so forth. About five songs out of the album, including the classic Edelweiss and half of Sixteen Going On Seventeen.

One fast and quick washroom stop, and soon we were on the high road to Vienna, at a good speed - certainly angels were watching over us, and me at traffic control today! Just a touch of traffic in the city center, but nothing to worry about. We were cutting it close, though : we arrived at the hotel at 1700H for a dinner at 1900H which meant out of the hotel at 1800H -- yikes!! Talk about your fast porters : it was real teamwork getting the baggage in. Dmitri shocked me by whisking our trolley bags into the foyer, even though I'd already listed Joe's help! The man's too kind by half, and an angel, no doubt about it.

Never did Mommy and I dress with such lightning speed as we did this evening! Fortunately our suitcases wer the first to arrive, so we had a headstart on Daddy. I wore my Chinese black-and-gold blouse over my Novenario pants and Arcopedico shoes. For a moment I felt a pang of genuine regret that I hadn't been able to bring my black lace number and shoes to match, but ah well -- perhaps it was for the best. Dresses like that were made to have consequences follow afterward, and me without my husband, to boot!! Fortunately the moment of aberration stayed that way -- a moment. The outfit I had on suited me just fine, and measured up very well against those of the others. We were certainly one class act as we headed for the restuarant -- a little beer cellar just across the square from The Mozart Cafe and the Hotel Sacher of the renowned Sachertorte.

The restaurant was an interesting place, and we'd been booked into a small room at the back, where everyone could be noisy to their heart's content. Once the drinks had been served, it was certainly noisy enough! Robert, Rhonda, Brian and Julie leading the van, as usual.

The queue for the buffet was very long, so I let Ma and Dad go first while I secured the bags. When it was my turn to join the line, I made my way to the end, where Geoff and Anthony were waiting their turn as well. On my way there, I felt a swat on my arm, and as I cast a startled look round to see who I might've jostled, this genial old man at one of the tables cried out, "Come sta?" by which I took it to mean that he was an Italian. Well, he was genial enough but not one of our group, and a bit merry at that. so I merely hid behind my bangs with a little smile, turned my back on him, and promptly related the story to Geoff, much to his amusement. Later on, as Lisa was making the rounds of the tables, I also told her the story, and she drived some amusement from it as well. Just as well that I wasn't wearing the black dress - heavens, the attention *that* would have gotten! Or maybe not. But on the next trip, perhaps we'll see.

It was a boisterous and merry group that got back on the bus for the trip to the Liechtestein Palace, where the Mozart/Strauss concert was to be held. Lisa gave us all sorts of interesting information about Vienna as we did our mini-evening tour around the Ringstrasse. Vienna by night is lovely, with all the municipal building lit up by floodlamps -- the Parliament, the Rathaus (city hall), the twin museums of natural history and art with Maria Theresa's statues presiding in the park between them. A city rich in memories of an imperial age, of gentility and culture and the magic of music everywhere. Nothing captures the spirit of Vienna like Strauss waltzes, and Lisa put some on, just to establish the ambiance for the evening.

Dmitri pulled up to the drop-off point and handed us down with perhaps a touch more care than usual, seeing as the women were all in evening dress (read : heels!). From there, Lisa salked us briskly up the drive to the Palais Liechtenstein entrance, seemingly oblivious to the sharp chill in the air. The Palais belongs to the Liechtenstein family, the holders of the principality that bears their name. I remember turning to Fiona and saying how easy it was to imagine the days when carriages and barouches would roll up the gravel drive to discharge ladies in long evening gowns and men in dinner kit. Even though it's now a public music hall, the place retains an inescapable air of romance about it.

The sensation of walking back into the past was intensifies ad Lisa gathered us into the lobby and then led us up the grand staircase to the main drawing room. We were the last big group to arrive, but were ushered into the best seast in the house -- right next to the stage, four rows deep, on the right-hand side of the proceedings. Definitely one up for Insight in terms of bookings.

The concert was too short by half for all the confirmed music lovers, and just the right length for everyone who'd spent an entire day on the bus. It was magic - there was even a ballet! I never knew Strauss' Weiner Blut even had words to it until tonight, and the soprano singing it was just lovely. I never knew Mozart had written a Miaou Duet until tonight. Do I regret not taking pictures during the performance? Not in the least. I was too enraptured by the music to even want to think about composing a good photo; I was there as a listener, not as a photographer. So listen I did, with all my heart, not caring how I must have looked, all enraptured by the music.

With everyone walking on clouds, we made our way back through a sharper chill to the bus pick-up point. Ma won Anna's heart by whispering, "It's good to see you and Tony together. We missed him!" Anna gave Ma a hug and a kiss on the cheek, because we'd sort of adopted Anna in Venice when Tony had inexplicably vanished -- ostensibly because he was tired, but in reality because he and Anna had had a spat. Oh, well. Trust Ma to be a bridge of healing grace.

One of the other tour groups waiting for their coach was particularly filled with goodwill, and as some began tra-la-la-ing a Strauss waltz, a pair began to dance -- yes, in the street!

Another tour round the Ringstrasse, and soon Dmitri had landed us safely at the hotel. This time, I'd mustered all my courage and tried out a phrase half-remembered from a book. When he wished me good night and sleep well as he handed me down, I replied, "Dormi bien aussi, et faites des bon reves!" which made his eyes widen and he called out, "J'espere que oui!" or something like that. Well, I certainly hope he **does** have good dreams. He deserves them.

In the lobby, Lisa seemed to want some company, so she invited me, Franca, Joe, Alex and Fionna for a last minute drink. I sent up Ma and Dad to the room, and joined my friends at the coffee shop, where we picked ourselves a quiet corner. Lisa at first decided to go up to her room, but was then back after several minutes.

Most everyone had coffee, I chose water and sat downwind from the smokers gratefully puffing away. Lisa apologized and I said I'd be right as long as the fog was blowing away from me. The talk was fairly general at first : how fortunate we have been in terms of travel time and weather and getting through all the cities unscathed, especially in Spain and Italy. Lisa regaled us with some of the tribulations that she had been through as a Tour Director - one of the most harrowing being the time she was handling an 18-35 (Contiki) tour and one of the passengers went ballistic. Turned out he was a paranoid schizophrenic from an extremely (to put it mildly) dysfunctional family. She told of the Tour Director whose four passengers fell to their deaths after riding a Greek jeep on mountain roads.

Then she let loose with a bombshell -- that Greg was planning to sue Insight! It seems that his new bride was not happy with some of the accomodation and was complaining all the time. We shall hope that Greg was merely speaking out of irritation with his wife's nagging. Fortunately, they are the only ones out of the 42 of us that are complaining -- a pretty good score, said Joe, by way of consolation to Lisa. She shrugged and said that it's the one complainer that gets more attention than the majority of content clients. Still, the batting average continues to remain high in terms of customer satisfaction, and all of us told her so.

Ma and Dad were outraged that anyone could find fault with our Lisa's handling of the tour, when I updated them on the events in the coffee shop. They'll be sleeping in and skipping Schonbrunn, which they have already seen twice over. Leaving me free to wander around the shops during the free time while others take in the Statsopera and the Imperial Treasury!