[INSIGHT TRAVEL - EUROPEAN GRANDEUR] - Innsbruck, Part 2

DAY 26 - SEPTEMBER 25, 2000
INNSBRUCK, AUSTRIA
INNSBRUCK - HOLIDAY INN
ROOM 1101

/...continued from previous post

We were then asked to hike up a little way up the hill we had descended in order to get to the little chalet-type restaurant where had had such a wonderful time. Being such a fit group, we hiked so fast we overshot the gathering point, and our buggy driver was sorely challenged to get us all back in the carriage again! Eventually, we did manage to gift into the carriage, and off we went on our way back to the bus.

People are so nice here -- smiling and waving at the tourists -- we even had two kids keeping pace with us on their bicycles, making friends with Alan, before leaving us at the intersection.

The horse, who up till now had been rather well-behaved, pulled a fast one on the folks sitting up front. They had to use the poop-scoop! I guess it was the first time any of them - bar the driver, of course - have ever come that close to fresh manure. The driver made light of it, taking the poop-scoop and tossing its contents into an open field, there to fertilize someone's future crop, we presume.

I suppose in an effort to distract the more sensitive minds among the passengers, the driver then launched into an a capella sing-along. It worked - quite a few voices could be heard in the choruses, if not the verses. the highlight of this portion was when the buggy driver launched into a bawdy version of "My Bonnie" that started "My father lies over my mother..."!!!

In the middle of our third round of "My Bonnie", we came into view of the parking lot where we had begun the ride - it seemed ages ago. In the still mountain air, voices carry well. More so when you are talking about voices raised loudly in song.

Dmitiri, who was poised and ready to meet us, wore a look of utter surprise and shock. He had good reason. First, the carriage we used coming back wasn't the same one he saw us loaded into. Second, the singing that came floating on the breeze (not to mention the laughter!) was like nothing he had ever seen out of us until that moment. You could practically hear the little cogs in his brain ticking over as we spilled out from the carriage. On closer inspection, he flashed everyone a broad grin and was escorting everyone back into the bus, as usual. I guess he decided that we were, indeed, his passengers and not some changelings from the Tyrolean woods. Lisa had expected to hear our arrival by the horses' hooves, certainly not by the volume of happy noise we were generating.

Next stop : Innsbruck city center. Not until I felt the airconditioning on my face did I realize how much heat my face had absorbed. It's a wonder that I haven't begun to peel, though I have no doubt I'm getting to look quite Moorish in Ma's eyes. I must admit, though - I'm probably taking more care of my skin now than I ever did at home. so that will be another useful habit to bring back, along with the prayer time and journaling.

It didn't take too long for us to get back to Innsbruck. Dmitri let us off at a plaza near one of the historic buildings of Innsbruck. Lisa led us through an arch and into a street that was actually a side street leading into the main avenue. Down this street were the usual row of tourist and souvenir shops; interestingly enough, there was even a branch of the Hotel Sacher selling original Sachertorte.

My memories of Innsbruck are of a small and dingy-looking town, not at all like this. I certainly don't remember walking down such a pretty avenue with so many shops! For sure the weather was different then -- it was September, too, that last time; but it was cloudy. Here it is nearly October, and it's perfectly clear and warm!

Lisa popped us inside the hotel that had the Sacher coffee shop. Rather, she took us inside the hotel courtyard. The place is built in a quadrangle and painted in a shade of yellow that was Marie-Theresa's favorite. In fact, that paint color can even be ordered by the name "Maria Theresa yellow."

After this interesting place, we were taken down the street to visit the "Golden Roof" constructed by Emperor Maximilian. It's not completely gold, of course, but a mixture of bronze and gold leaf applied to the shingles of the roof. The story goes that Emperor Max had developed a reputation as being a stingy sort of ruler who couldn't even be bothered to prettify his own cities. This stung the emperor's pride, and he ordered the roof built - just to show everyone that he could do it. When you view the building from the square, one comes to appreciate the beauty not only of the roof, but of the entire frontage and the buildings surrounding it as well. There's one guilding opposite the "Golden Roof" that has its frontage done up to look like it has pink roses climbing up on a trellis. On the balcony shaded by the "Golden Roof" are representations of the Emperor Maximilian and his two wives - or was it one wife and one mistress? But it's definitely the Emperor flanked by two women, solemnly looking out over the tourists milling about the square.

One truly appreciates the fine hotel locations at a time like this. The "Golden Roof" stands at the very end of a long main road - the Maria Theresienstrasse, I think it is. LisaH oriented us by pointing out the directions we should take from the "Golden Roof" to the hotel (straight ahead, then left at the very end of the street); to the mountain brooding over Innsbruck (facing the "Golden Roof", turn left and follow that street); to the lovely parks we passed on the way in (facing the "Golden Roof", turn right and follow the street, through the arch and into the plaza for a river walk); to the Swarovski shop (straight ahead, just after the McDonald's!).

Since the Swarovski store was one of our main shopping objectives (free toilets, as well!) it was one very excited little group that trotted down the short distance to the store. Upon entering it seems like one big tourist trap, but then when you've adjusted to the arrangement of the store, it's really quite elegant. Everyone was given a promo card good for a free gift from Swarovski - in this case, a solitaire stickpin for one's lapel. We had a little orientation tour on what to find in the store, and where : jewelry on the second floor, vases and tableware on the ground floor, Christmas decor and other miniatures in the basement, where the washrooms were also to be found. Most of the women opted to visit the washrooms first, before the serious business of shopping, and a good thing, too. We were the first in the queue!

Having freed our minds about the facilities, Ma and I returned upstairs to look at the jewelry section. "Small and easy to carry" is the watchword for souvenirs. Dad settled himself down to wait in a chair, while Ma and I prowled through the floor looking for just the right piece of jewelry at the price. Eventually Ma found hers and I got mine - a pendant necklace of the Swarovski swan logo in yellow gold, and pave crystal, plus a pair of earrings to match. Ma went through he usual phase of indecision before settling on which pieces she really, truly wanted.

At the cash counter, we were told that we qualified for the tax rebate offered to customers who bought more than a specific amount of goods. We were also asked if we wanted the rebate in cash or as a credit card item. I asked which was more efficient, and the lady said it was better as a credit on one's credit card. So we chose that, and in time we'll see how this works out. Payment procedure involved much signing of traveler's checks and filling up of forms, but in the end, we were soon on our way after yet another stop in the washrooms.

Outside, we joined up with Tony and Anna at the little cafe across from the shop. I ducked inside for some sandwiches and Cokes, and we made a nice al fresco lunch out of it, right there on the sidewalk. The sandwiches were delicious. there is definitely something about touring that makes me hollow from the feet up. I never notice it while we're shopping, though I can tell when I'm hungry : I become more aware of aching feet and then note an increase in grouchiness. but I love the hungry feeling rather than the bloated one I sometimes have when we're back home. At least, I know I don't have to eat, just for the sake of eating! It's fun to be able to relish one's food - that feeling of satisfaction when good food warms up the belly is a great restorative.

Ma and Dad enjoyed a nice chat with Tony and Anna before we tackled the next order of business : finding the Bavarian hat Dad's friend wanted as a pasalubong. Now that was some expedition; we went up and down and back and forth while searching for just the right hat.

/...to be continued